When I arrived solo in Los Angeles five days ago, it would be entirely honest to say that I had no idea what to expect. There are stereotypes a plenty: The City of Angels, La La Land, the city of traffic... Suffice to say, thus far I have come to see that no such labels come from nowhere. One thing I would say for which Southern California - (or SoCal, if I'm trying to fit in) - appears heavily underestimated for is the food!
Day ONE and I was confronted with an utterly expected delight in 'Donut Man', an independent doughnut shop in Glendora whom create handmade, fresh pastries, stuffed with fresh fruit and some even glazed in maple. While this might sound like the most typically American, greasy and gooey establishment, I flawed by how much this was not the case. The shop was just off an understated exit to Route 66 and so well known much their skill in unbelievable pastry quality that there was a long queue, even before 8am in the morning. I realise now I have spent lines just discussing a doughnut shop, but I cannot express enough how much this was a marker of the way in which California takes something quintessentially 'American' and makes it... more desirable? Better quality? I'm still stuck for adjective that really sums up whatever it is that makes up this 'Californian-ness'.
Day TWO involved a rite of passage anyone who first visits The Golden State... finding the Hollywood Sign. This may sound like a simple task, since, you know, it's right there, looking down over all of us mere mortals with stars in our eyes. However, this is not at all the case. Among the Hollywood hills are some of this cities most beautifully quaint residences, so pastel and cozy on such narrow, winding roads that I had to double check I hadn't suddenly transported through some sort of movie-magic portal to the hills of Italy.
My poor guide / temporary roommate had even her veteran California driving skills tested here it was so foreign in their hilly, narrow nature. Having read that residents in the hills have begun doing everything they can to reroute and mislead tourists away from the sign, and therefore also their neighbourhood, I arrived wondering why such people would buy such expensive real estate knowing it was in a guarenteed tourist hotspot... only to complain about the fact that tourists turn up. However, witnessing the beauty of Beachwood Canyon, I almost sympathise with the residents who have taken to putting up counterfeit 'Police' roadblocks and 'No Access to Sign' signs - even reportedly persuading Google Maps to give the incorrect directions. Their home feels so wonderfully remote and removed from the never ending - and I mean literally, it never ends - traffic and noise that is Los Angeles. However, thanks to the wonders of short form video, we found the correct advice that lead us to the best view of the sign, a little post on a winding hillside road in Lake Hollywood Park. It was not even 10am and the serenity certainly added to the appear of the view. Just looking at it seemed to make one feel as though anyone, any one of us, could belong here... with a bit of luck.
Later that day, we headed to Studio City, a strangely connected area of Los Angeles that does not feel like anything much at all. While it doesn't feel like much, one look around makes you realise that you are in fact surrounded by media giants, a stone's throw down Ventura Blvd from the heights of Universal City and Warner Bros. I was here to meet a friend, whom has been here for weeks. However, as it was, the only side to Studio City I could really pay attention to on this day was the side that this friend described as the reason they were somewhat looking forward to leaving the city. As I witnessed, this was a place where strange, somewhat bedraggled men lean to kiss woman without their consent as they walk by to grab some take away... (Yes, really).
This strangeness was also reflected on Hollywood Boulevard, though for this area I had been forewarned. I braved the haphazard traffic and packed pavements (*sidewalks)... and the random men holding a single tree branch shouting 'Stephanie over and over again, (go figure)... determined to see one person alone who takes residence in a prime spot outside the famous Chinese Theatre... Ten bucks says you can all guess who...
Day THREE and we headed to UNIVERSAL, which must be typed in caps since it is every single big-kid-turned-twenty-something to get there. While rides such as The Mummy were the most thrilling, the construction of J K Rowling's Hogsmeade, a fictional village from Harry Potter complete with false snow that glistens, albeit rather out of place, on the facade roofs in the California sunshine.
The staff were one of my favourite things about this place, unlike all the horror stories of false, cheerless Disney employees just a few miles away. They were all super excited to see I'd never been before, bouncing - literally - to give me a 'First Timer' badge. The back lot tour was as expected, an intriguing glimpse into where Universal's real living is made: the movies.
My personal favourite was the facade that is known for its continuous masquerade as New York City, seen most notably in 'Bruce Almighty', for example, but also in a thousand other films. Even Taylor Swift's latest music video! There was also wonderful exteriors from films that time forgot, wide west streets, summer cabins and the worlds largest free-standing blue screen.
The Harry Potter ride, 'The Forbidden Journey', made me feel ten years old again. Universal have built two Hogwarts', one in Orlando and one here in Studio City - yes, really. It is a beautifully detailed facade of the fictional castle, 50% scale at a guess; large enough to house an entire indoor roller-coaster experience ride, a maze of queues for said roller-coaster and, of course, a Hogwarts gift shop.
It is admirable and fascinating feat of engineering, incorporated with custom footage from all of the primary Potter cast. As also demonstrated by the Kong experience on Universal's back lot tour, the studio has invested massively in 360 projection that looks so realistic you find yourself giving everything a double take. Surely Harry Potter isn't right there, really talking to you on the balcony above you as you queue? So much is the magic of film making, you find yourself wondering.
I won't spoil the ride in case any of you manage to make it there, but just know it is honestly right to say it is an 'experience' rather than a ride, in which Harry and Ron direct you from their brooms in front as you fly over Hogwarts and dodge the Womping Willow. Even for someone like me who has a desperate love for the franchise and for filmmaking, it has left me without the adequate words to just how impressed I am.
Suffice to say, thanks to Coca Cola's Two-For-One deal, I have a free day to go back and I shall be doing it all again.
Day FOUR and we ventured out to Huntington Beach, where none other than the US Open for surfing is currently underway. However, other than copious amounts of Vans merchandise, no one much seemed to be watching the surfing, far too preoccupied with the heat, I think. It was here that I discovered the wonder that is Nektar Juice Bar 'acai bowls', which include a super fruit sorbet type smoothy, topped with fresh fruit and granola. Mindblowingly simple... but god do I wish I could take a year's supply home with me.
Day FIVE and we headed to the hallowed streets of Beverley Hills. I'm sure pretty much all those who will read this will know of the significance of this neighbourhood, even if they we never avid watchers of 90210. As one of the most desired post codes in LA, the streets she soaked in sun, very white and very clean. You know you have arrived, quite simply, when the gated communities are in sight. The houses here are beautiful, if a little intimidating, unlike Hollywood where they feel a little more like home. That being said, walking down Rodeo Drive - on which there were a very casual display of Maserati's, by the way - it's easy to feel very dazzled... and tight in the purse strings.
Where is Richard Gere when you need him?
I also tried Cheesecake Factory for the first time here, (see below - I have splashed to a midday mimosa). Suffice to say, I couldn't finish the piece.
Day SIX, a chilled day by the pool in Upland, was punctuated by something rather exciting invitation from a very generous new friend to have a tour around ABC7 News' studio. Not only was if fascinating to see American commercial news in action, but every single person greeted and welcomed us with such a warmth that I am very thankful for, encouraging us to take as many photos on set as we wanted. We were also charmed by Dallas Raines, who is officially America's 'Favourite weatherman'. I'm sure won't mind me saying that he is the most Californian soul I have met, thus far, despite the fact he wasn't always living here. He is so smooth and all-knowing in his meteorology that, believe it or not, he doesn't use a teleprompter at all. It was pretty fascinating to watch. Massive thank you to Melissa for showing us round and being so accommodating.
Thanks to Melissa's recommendation, we then ventured into Downtown LA to find '71 Above', a penthouse 360 bar and restaurant atop the USA Bank Tower. We drove here in time for sunset, highlighting the beauty of the art-deco architecture of Downtown in a hue of orange.
We watched the sun go down over the city and it was lovely, while drinking far too many expensive cocktails; well, I did at least. The best of these was their 'West Hollywood'. It was truly lovely to watch the sun go down over LA, watching the lights of the never-ending traffic. It occurred to me: why do they call New York the city that never sleeps? Because it looks to me that LA is a raging insomniac, too.
I shall be taking that recipe home with me. That night, I also had my first In'N'Out burger... If I could, I would never buy McDonalds again. If only the franchise would make it across the Atlantic.
Day SEVEN and we hit up The Frolic Room (after frequenting '71 Above' again), a dive bar on Hollywood Boulevard... after trying our first Shake Shack, a famous East Cost burger joint that has just opened here thanks to its instagram fame. Safe to say, 'it really is better than In'N'Out'.
The Frolic Room is small but has a definite all-welcome vibe. We walked in dressed for 71 Above, therefore felt overdressed, and yet everyone was so friendly and the conversation over the hours we were in this bar was incredibly stimulating. It is definitely a place for tourists and locals alike - and at their prices, I would definitely go back. When we left, we were walked back to our $20 parking spot down the stars of Holllywood Boulevard by two lovely local conversationalists: "We'll walk you ladies to your car, so you don't get jumped."
This, to me, is quintessential of Californians, native or otherwise: social butterflies of the globalised world.
